The custom wheel building process
Understand what it takes to build custom bicycle wheels
I build bicycle wheels by hand. Because that’s the way bicycle wheels should be built. With precision and to tight tolerances.
This approach ensures reliability, responsiveness, durability and many years of service, not to mention ease of maintenance.
If the wheel has been assembled properly it is easier to true or repair at a later stage if one needs to replace the spokes, hub or rim.
Deciding on what’s best for you
At Wheelbuilder, there’s no such thing as off the shelf.
Every single wheel that I build is designed to suit you as a rider, your bike, where and how you ride. The problem with stock factory wheels is that they are designed to be average and suit the average rider.
Another problem with stock wheels is that they are essentially a cost-cutting exercise from the manufacturer.
Before I can suggest a wheelset for you, I need to understand:
- Why you need a new set of wheels
- How and where you ride
- How much you weigh
- What your available budget is
Once I understand your requirements, I confirm stock availability and pricing of the best components that will suit you. Then I provide you with a detailed itemised quote and we discuss options.
If you’re happy to go ahead, you pay me the required deposit. I get the parts, I quality control the parts, and then I can build your wheels, keeping you in the loop every step of the way.
Once your wheels are complete, I send you detailed photographs. You pay any outstanding balance and I deliver by courier nationwide.
Preparing for the build
With components decided, preparation for the build can begin.
Spoke length calculation
Each rim/hub combination requires spokes of very specific lengths. If spoke lengths are out by more than a millimeter – too long or too short – it has negative implications either for the wheelbuilder, or the cyclist.
I carefully measure the effective rim diameter (ERD) of every rim that I work with, and confirm hub dimensions compared to the manufacturer’s published information.
I then use at least two online spoke length calculators to determine the correct length of spokes to use for your build.
Assembling your wheels
Before your wheels are laced, each spoke thread is lubricated.
Once the rim has been laced to a hub, I tighten each spoke by hand, evenly and slowly increasing the tension around the rim to ensure that the wheel is laterally and radially true, building a wheel that neither hops nor wobbles.
During the tensioning process, the “dish” is also adjusted, making sure that the rim is be centered in the frame or fork. I use a number of techniques to make sure that the spokes are evenly and properly seated and that they’re not twisted.
There should never be any popping or pinging of spokes when the bike is ridden. This is the sound of spokes untwisting and results in uneven and reduced spoke tension, causing a wheel to go out of true over time.
The wheel is finished when all spokes have reached optimum and even tension and the wheel is perfectly round and true. Barring an accident, it should stay this way for many years.
If it’s a wheel that will use tubeless tyres, I then install tubeless rim tape to seal the spoke holes and install the tubeless valve stem. The wheel is now ready to have a tyre mounted and be ridden.
Rims and hubs
I source rims and hubs from suppliers locally in South Africa as well as from suppliers and manufacturers overseas.
I only use components from brands that are well known, well-supported and have a high level of after-sales service, so that you never have to worry about parts or maintenance.
I get hubs from brands like Hope, DT Swiss, OneUp Components, Raceface, Nextie, Endō, ED-GE, Spank and Cure Components, among others.
Guarantee of quality
Every wheel that I build has a lifetime workmanship guarantee. If the rim goes out of true during normal use I will true the wheel free of charge. Obviously this excludes crash or impact damage which is not uncommon, especially if the wheel is used for mountain biking.
It’s important to remember that if a wheel is involved in an accident and is buckled past a certain limit it may be impossible to straighten the rim and retain proper and correct, even spoke tensions and the rim may need to be replaced.
I believe that spokes should not break during normal use. If you break spokes in a wheel I’ve built, I’ll replace them and true the rim at no cost to you.
The components I supply – rims, hubs and spokes – are warrantied by the manufacturer against manufacturing defects, so if you experience any failure of this sort, we are both covered.